Suede is formed from the hide of one of various animals. Most suede is made from the hides of goats, lambs, calves, or pigs. In this case, as the hide is considerably thinner than a cowhide, the underside of the hide is used. The texture is soft and supple. Suede made from the hides of these smaller animals is fine, and is used to make handbags and garments such as gloves, pants, shirts, jackets, shoes, and skirts. As the upper layer of the hide is still attached to this suede, it is fairly durable, although all suede is easy to stain.

The hides of cows and deer are also used to make suede, although in this case the process is different. Because the hides of these animals are thick, the hide must be split to create suede. The suede created from splits is not as fine in texture as that made from the previously mentioned animals, and will be somewhat shaggy and rough. Suede made in this fashion also tends to be weaker, as it does not have the upper layer of the hide to provide strength.

Because suede is porous, it is easy for it to become dirty or stained. Even water can cause a stain on suede. The best thing to do is to apply a protective spray designed for suede to your suede items before use. However, if the suede does become soiled or stained, there are ways to help restore it to its previous condition.

To begin cleaning your suede item you should first raise the nap by rubbing the suede with a towel. Do this gently, do not scrub hard, you might damage the suede. Once this has been done, take an eraser to the dirt or stain. This should not be a pink eraser, but preferably one designed for suede or an artist’s gum eraser. Using an eraser will often be enough to loosen up dirt and remove at least some of the stain. If the results are still not satisfactory, vinegar can sometimes be used to get rid of a stain. However, before you use this where it will show, do a test on the underside of the item, or in a spot where it will not show if the vinegar bleaches out the suede.

For really stubborn dirt or stains, it would be best to have the suede cleaned professionally. Never use petroleum products or dry cleaning products on your suede items, these can ruin them completely.

The best Hair-On Cow Hides are produced in Brazil. While many fine quality hides are also tanned in Argentina, it is the consensus of most knowledgeable wholesale dealers in Hair-On Cow Hide that the very finest hides are from Brazil. The tanneries in Brazil are expert in preparing a Hair-On Cow Hide that is of exceptional quality. Decades of knowledge of the tanning process has enabled the Brazilian tanneries to consistently provide the kind of Hair-On Cow Hide wanted by the most demanding customers. A wide range of natural colors and stenciled patterns are available to fit any lifestyle.

As a Hair-On Cow Hide accessory can be a considerable purchase it is important that only the highest quality product be bought. To begin with, a cow hide that has been tanned properly will not shed its hairs, which can occur with an inferior hide. The hair will have a soft, natural sheen to it that is absent in a cheaper hide. As the hair-on hide will be used in decoration it is important that the pattern, or the piece itself if a rug, is symmetrical. An uneven pattern or poorly cut rug will detract from the room as a whole.

Another problem with Hair-On Cow Hides that are not imported from Brazil is one of odor. The tanning process to preserve the hide will depend on chemical baths. Some of the cheaper baths will leave a chemical smell on the hide. Hair-On Cow Hides from Brazil will please the customer as there is no unpleasant odor associated with them at all. These hides have been tanned by the expensive Chromium tanning method. It costs more to tan hides this way, but the superior product resulting is worth it.

Like any other article of furniture or rug, the Hair-On Cow Hide piece will need to be cleaned from time to time. It is perfectly all right to vacuum these rugs without worry, although it would be better to go with the grain rather than against it. A stain can be dealt with using a moist cloth and mild soap. The Hair-On Cow Hide rug or furniture will keep its color integrity longer if kept out of direct sunlight, and it is a good idea to move the rug from spot to spot to prevent wear in one area.

The best grade of leather is Full Grain Leather. This leather has only had the epidermis (top layer of skin) and the hair removed. Full Grain Leather has not been sanded or reduced in any other way, and this makes this leather very durable and strong. Although any slight imperfections will remain on Full Grain Leather, it will last for years. Full Grain Leather is used to make better shoes and as upholstery material for fine furniture. This leather will eventually crack somewhat, but will also develop a soft patina, adding to its beauty. Full Grain Leather comes from the upper part of the hide.

Although Top Grain Leather might sound as if it’s the best, it actually is in a grade below Full Grain Leather. This leather has been processed after tanning by being sanded. The surface is then finished in a way that has a less natural feel to it than that of Full Grain Leather. Top Grain Leather will not develop a patina. While Top Grain Leather is not as good as Full Grain, it is less expensive, which will lower the cost of any product made from it, making it a good choice for many people.

Sometimes, it is desirous to add a different surface to the leather. Usually, the hides used for Corrected Grain Leather are inferior hides with something to conceal. Old injuries and damage caused by ticks and other parasites can be covered up by this process. The hide will first be sanded then a thick dye will be applied to it. A pattern can then be imprinted on the leather to give it an artificial grain pattern. Products made from Corrected Grain Leather will be cheaper, but have a less natural feel to them.

Split Leather results from the separation of Top Grain Leather from the rawhide. Split Leather is usually used to make suede. During the splitting process, the leather can be made into different thicknesses. The thinner suedes are used to make garments such as shirts, skirts, and gloves. Thicker suedes will be made into coats and jackets and handbags.

To begin the tanning process, it is necessary to use salt to cure the hide. The salt will stop the bacterial decay and help ready the hide for the next step, which will involve removing the hair and help to dissolve any remaining fat or grease. Milk of lime and various sulfides are used in this step of the tanning process. After this has been done, the hide will have its hair taken off by mechanical means. Any remaining hair will have to be removed by hand. The exception to this, of course, will be Hair-On Cow Hides.

It is now time to begin the actual tanning process, which will be accomplished in one of two ways: vegetable tanning or mineral tanning. A third process, called tawing, is not actually tanning and is generally used to cure pigskins and goatskins. Tawing does not really tan the leather and if subjected to prolonged moisture, leather prepared by this method will eventually rot.

In vegetable tanning, tannin is actually used. Tannin is where the term ‘tanning’ comes from. The old German word for oak was tannin, and it was the bark of the oak that was originally used in tanning. Today, tree barks from a variety of sources are used to obtain tannin; besides oak, hemlock, chestnut, and mangrove barks are also used. The hides to be used in vegetable tanning are stretched then put into a tannin bath for several weeks. Hides prepared in this way tend to be somewhat stiff. Leather prepared by vegetable tanning is often used for leather upholstery.

Mineral tanning is a much shorter process and will take the hide from the cured stage to leather in only one day. Chromium sulfate is used in mineral tanning and the chrome is absorbed into the leather to stop any process of decay. It also renders the leather quite soft and suitable for clothing or handbags as well as upholstery and cowhide rugs.

To create Aniline Dyed Leather, the tanned hide must be put into a dye bath for a certain period of time. The longer a hide remains in the dye bath, the color will be stronger and darker. Hundreds of different colors are available for this dye treatment. This process will saturate the hide and produce a hide that is colored all the way through. This is not a surface coloration. After the Aniline Dyed Leather is removed from the dye bath, the surface is not treated in any other way. The leather may be hand buffed, but any variations in dye coloration or leather irregularity will still be seen. Aniline Dyed Leather is soft, but as it lacks any kind of protective surface, it can fade or stain. This leather will develop a beautiful patina over time. Aniline Dyed Leather will generally be used on the most expensive products.

Nubuck Leather is created from Aniline Dyed Leather. After the hide has been taken from the dye vat, the surface will be ‘roughed up’ to create a nap that is open. This is a very soft type of leather, but it will also be susceptible to staining or fading.

The term Semi-Aniline Dyed Leather is also called Aniline Plus Leather. The hide will be subjected to the same dyeing process used in Aniline Dyed Leather, resulting in a leather that has been penetrated completely by the dye color. After this however, a surface pigment will be applied to the hide. This will cause the color to be more even than that found in Aniline Dyed Leather and also provides a measure of protection to the hide as well. Different surface textures can then be applied to the Semi-Aniline Dyed Leather to give it a distinctive appearance. Usually, a clear protective coating is added to finish the process. This clear coating will provide anything from a matte to a satin to a gloss finish. Semi-Aniline Dyed Leather products generally will cost less than Aniline Dyed Leather.

The first thing to remember is that, like natural products such as silk or wood, the leather will be subject to fading if placed in the sun. The dye used on the leather upholstery will eventually lose its vibrancy if subjected to sunlight constantly. Even undyed leather can fade from this exposure. Heat is another thing that can cause the deterioration of leather upholstery. Any furniture with leather upholstery should be positioned so that it is not close to a heat source or where it will be exposed to direct sunlight. If left near heat sources or in the sun, the leather might also crack and split.

As leather is natural product, it should be cleaned in a gentle manner. To begin with, the leather should be dusted every week to help prevent a buildup of dirt. A slightly damp cloth can be run over the leather, too. This will help to maintain the moisture level. These two processes should help keep the furniture in good shape.

When it is felt necessary to clean leather upholstery, the first thing to do is to find a high quality water-based cleaning product. Cleaners containing wax or oil should never be used as these will ruin the finish. A danger is posed by the use of baby wipes, as these will also destroy the finish on leather upholstery. Never use detergents or soap on leather upholstery.

If something spills on the leather upholstery, blot up the liquid. Try not to spread it out. If the spill is from something greasy, a bit of patience is required as the leather will absorb the grease in time. Do not try to remove this with soap or solvent. Saddle soap should not be used, either, as this is much too harsh for most leather finishes.

A high quality leather conditioner should be used on leather upholstery furniture once or twice a year. If there are stains that prove impossible to remove using water, the best idea is to call in someone who deals with leather professionally. Any attempt to remove a stubborn stain using solvents or chemicals might not only make the problem worse, but could damage the leather as well.